Weekend brunches are notorious for offering quantity over quality because typically it is the unlimited imbibing that sells. However, if you are looking for something with slightly more class and substance, then make sure you visit Eneko at One Aldwych. Hugely talented Chef Eneko Atxa has opened a more informal version of his basque cooking style restaurant that is the three-Michelin-starred Azurmendi in Spain.
It might be a relaxed environment, but the dining room is expertly designed with a grand copper-plated staircase leading into the spacious dining room with wonderful high ceilings. The seats are sumptuously comfortable, in particularly the booths on the sides of the room.
The menu might be relaxed street food and Eneko Atxa classics, but they are some of the most elegant brunch offerings you will see in town. Where else in London would you get a brunch tasting menu?
Traditional talo must be one of the most instagrammable dishes around filled with edible flowers, heritage tomatoes and basil emulsion and it is the type of feel good food that makes you feel healthier after eating it.
Although, their indulgent options do come later in the form of Cerdito Caliente “Hot Hog”, which is their take on the ham sandwich. It comes in a box complete with a wooden pig’s head and the dish is surprisingly light with flavoursome Iberico ham and mushroom duxelle.
This was followed by a dish that you just have to admire the sheer ingenuity of the kitchen team: to be able to capture the runny consistency of egg yolk in a tempura. Forget about poached, scrambled etc, this is how I would like my breakfast eggs cooked from now on!
The main course came in the form of a Basque-style prime rib of beef or monkfish. I opted for the prime rib of beef, which was of tremendous quality although it did come extremely rare and you do wonder why the staff didn’t check about how I would have like the beef to be cooked. Also, there did go slightly overboard with the salt flakes.
All was forgiven by the time the dessert arrived: Torrija, which is Basque vanilla sponge, caramel crumble ice cream. The cake had the ideal amount of firmness and sweetness and matched with an irresistible scope of caramel crumble ice cream, which is the Basque take on the salted caramel ice cream.
This menu comes with a glass of Mas Macia Cava brut too and for the sheer quality of the food, it must be one of the best brunches in town at the moment.
baldwin@townfish.com