Bocconcino is located in an area just off Berkeley Square with esteemed neighbours like Nobu and Park Chinois. Naturally, you would enter Bocconcino with some trepidation fearing this might be a dining establishment just for the Mayfair crowd. Rather than being ostentatious, the decor is considerably muted and understated; there are rustic-looking brick walls and inoffensive, comfortable beige furniture.
The staff here are expertly drilled here and ready to offer their personal thoughts on the lengthy menu and make suitable suggestions based on your tastes. I was more than happy to try some of their newer dishes based on our waiter’s recommendations.
Deep fried sardines served with pesto mayonnaise isn’t a dish I would generally order, but the fish was meaty and the batter wasn’t overly oily but had just enough crunchiness.
The Andria burrata simpled oozed creaminess and freshness. Andria is a small town in Puglia, where it is thought that burrata first originated from. The dish came with a healthy dose of aubergine and cherry tomatoes.
It is the season for courgette flowers and their version is beautifully presented and packed with rich, punchy flavours from the ricotta and black truffle. It might not be the most healthy dish with a copious amount of cheese, but it might also be one of their most addictive dishes.
Homemade ravioli with aubergine had a hint of smokiness from the scamorza and the pasta had that slight chew when you know the chefs having been cooking dishes al dente style for all their lives. The pasta and pizza dishes tended to be relatively reasonably priced considering the location and generally around the £16 mark and using some fine artisanal ingredients.
For the secondi dishes, you can’t go wrong with their seabass fillet which came bathed in an aromatic saffron broth. The fish was exquisite and had much more flavours than normal no doubt due to the strongly flavoured broth which also had briny, sweet flavours from the clams. It also came with an array of potatoes and cherry tomatoes to ensure that it is was a filling seafood dish.
Desserts were presented with a highly classical look; the wild berries tart was brimming with colourful fruits on a bed of custard. Whilst the millefoglie was sensually layered with divine chantilly cream along with chocolate and a hint of raspberry.
If you don’t want to dig out your Armani suit or evening gown, but still fancy dining in the elegant surroundings of Mayfair, Bocconcino is a top choice to consider with their well-sourced, hearty Italian menu.
baldwin@townfish.com