Londoners seem to be bombarded with endless bottomless brunch offers but you have to wonder where are all the bottomless evening deals? Are Londoners not sensible enough to handle an unlimited supply of alcohol post-work? One Canada Square is one of only a handful of places that do offer this on their after dark menu.
Maybe it is the sophisticated decor with rich mahogany table tops and traditional leather seating, this venue seems to only attract sophisticated drinkers who appreciate their wines and Proseccos rather than the binge-drinking types. They do offer a fine selection of wines, Prosecco or beers with the after dark menu. One Canada Square is part of the ETM group, which are successful enough to have their own vineyards in Spain producing their own ETM house wines.
There is a surprising amount of choice on this menu. I opted for the cured chalk stream trout, which I thought was quite unusual as most restaurants would be offering salmon, but the fish was tasty and lean. The unusual habitat of the chalk streams in Hampshire gives the trout that distinct taste. The dish was elegantly presented with colour and finesse using pickled beets and water cress.
The same theme continued with the main course, as I ordered the Peterhead cod. Peterhead is Europe’s largest white fish market and their Scottish cod provides the firmer flesh that most diners prefer. The olive oil mash tastes luxurious, yet it never feels too stodgy with the use of preserved lemon and celery salsa to add zestiness and aid digestion.
The sight of corn flake and cream cheese ice cream piqued my interest in the dessert section. Having picked the carrot cake with cream cheese ice cream, I had expected a scoop of ice cream to accompany the cake, but instead it came in the form of a light dusting of ‘snowflakes’. The cake is sturdy yet moist and filled with raisins. I actually preferred the light dusting of ice cream, as it made the dish less filling yet the taste still complemented the carrot cake extremely well.
Whilst there is a high concentration of successful business workers in Canary Wharf, the restaurant trade is extremely cut-throat in this area and it is with enticing offers like their after dark menu and attention to the smallest of details in their dishes which makes them stand out in this crowded marketplace.
baldwin@townfish.com