You might be excused for thinking Brick Lane is all about Indian cuisine and nothing else, but there are a tremendous amount of other ethnic cuisines on offer in one of the most multicultural parts of London. Enoteca Pomaio is a fine option to consider for those who would like a sojourn to the Tuscan countryside. Their owner, Marco and restaurant manager, Luca are through and through Tuscan foodies. Marco owns his own artisanal winery in the Chianti region, hence the name of the restaurant and many of the ingredients used here are from similar small food producers from the region.
The decor is unsurprisingly relaxed and casual as would be expected in this part of East London with ample displays of their treasured wines on their shelves along with a changing display of post-modern artwork.
Wine is without a doubt the primary reason for visiting Enoteca Pomaio: they offer craft wines from small producers, biodynamic varieties and rare options not available in more mainstream restaurants and bars. We tried an elegant glass of 2013 Syrah with an abundance of dark fruits and spices, which meant it worked well whether paired with food or on its own.
The small sharing plates seem to work best here along with their carefully chosen list of artisanal charcuterie and cheese boards. We tried a wholesome and hearty Tuscan classic, Ribollita bread and veg soup and black cabbage. It had a suitably thick texture like a stew and strong savoury notes from the healthy mixture of vegetables. A simple dish of truffled fried egg and potato cream was masterfully executed; the dish was silky smooth and had the right amount of truffle to flavour the dish without leaving you with overpowering truffle breath.
Main courses were decent if not particularly substantial. An artichoke salad with sun-dried tomatoes was undoubtedly fresh but resembled a side dish rather than the main course. Citrus marinated salmon had a firm bite to the appetising fish but did look like a plate of canapés rather than a seated meal. Thankfully it did come with a portion of pomaio chips.
If you are still hungry after appetisers, main course and wine, then they do have some dessert options for consideration. Chocolate lovers should make a beeline for the bruschettas with chocolate and salted flakes. It’s the kind of informal dish, great for enjoyment over a glass of dessert wine.
baldwin@townfish.com