The line is ever-blurring between a gastropub and a restaurant in terms of the quality of their food offerings. Case in point is the recently refurbished The Fellow of King’s Cross with their well executed contemporary British menu. Not so long ago, it would be hard to imagine this area being busy with diners and drinkers on an early Saturday evening. However, such is the revival going on in King’s Cross and the huge numbers of commuters using the station, it is highly recommended that you make a booking if you plan on visiting the Fellow.
The pub has been named after the Cheltenham Gold Cup winning racehorse, hence there is no surprise seeing various horse-themed decorations in the space including a breathtaking wall mural and pommel-horse benches. They also have The Black door, which is a hidden bar upstairs and a heated rooftop terrace with plush cushion seating.
Spring smoked salmon was suitably oily and fresh and came with healthy pumpernickel bread. The sour cream butter accompaniment is rather unusual and something I’ve only seen in a Heston Blumenthal cookbook. There are other British classics like brown onion soup with Welsh rarebit toasts and bubble & squeak cake with black pudding.
Whilst I was tempted by the aged Angus Sirloin, the ever helpful waitress convinced me to try something lighter which was their daily special of hake with spring greens, potatoes and hollandaise sauce. The fish was delicate and sweet with the skin gently crispy, whilst the potatoes were buttery and smooth. With a menu that includes sausage and creamy mash and cheeseburgers, this was probably one of the most healthy options on offer.
Blood orange with chocolate mousse was marginally larger in portion size than I had hoped, although being a secret chocolate addict, it was not a difficult task to finish off the dessert. The blood orange notes could have come through stronger, but the dessert was mostly well executed.
They offer a fine list of beers on draught and craft beers including ones from nearby Camden Town Brewery and popular choices like Longhorn Purity and Freedom Four.
With their new slick gastropub design, this is an ideal venue for hosting birthday parties or any excuse for celebrations in one of their smaller spaces like the terrace or The Black Door. They will also be hosting live music and stand-up comedy evenings.
baldwin@townfish.com