If you are looking for an informal yet stylish option to dine whether it is brunch or a late night dinner in Camden, look no further than Atrium Kitchen. Stables market might be the destination of choice for the casual tourist, but you feel more the catwalk supermodel as you ascend the splendid stairs into the restaurant. As befitting of the name, the venue has a gorgeously, relaxed vibe with a glasshouse-roof design as well a roof-top terrace feel where you are still connected to the buzzing energy from the market. The space has been designed by one of the leading British artist of the last few decades, Tom Dixon.
They have created a welcoming menu here where you can happily return at any time of the day to enjoy the excellent service. You can enjoy an egg Benedict for brunch or an informal grilled sirloin steak ciabatta sandwich for lunch down to a more traditional 3-course menu which we sampled for dinner.
It is unusual to find hot-smoked salmon as an appetiser in restaurants, simply because it does require more work in the kitchen, but their version here is beautifully roasted in honey. It is substantial, not overcooked to retain its freshness and seasoned with a light lemon and dill dressing. My guest had a heartwarming homemade broccoli soup and what was interesting to note was the rustic bread that came with the soup was gently warmed, soft and airy and used sun-dried tomatoes. Sometimes, it is those small details that diners do remember a restaurant for.
The only slight disappointment for the main course was the fact there was only 1 vegetarian option available, whereas some steak houses might have more vegetarian options. Although their pearl barley risotto was very hearty and nutritious tasting and was accompanied with asparagus, basil and pecorino. The pan-fried halibut was colourfully presented with the vibrant green from the asparagus contrasting with the yellow choron sauce, which also had vivid red tomato cubes in it. The fish had appetising citrusy notes due in part to the well constructed lemon thyme crust.
Both desserts we tried: Passion fruit creme brulée and vanilla Panna cotta were well-made in terms of the texture and consistency. They were also not overly sweet, although the passion fruit and vanilla notes could have come through a little stronger.
Atrium Kitchen is a strong addition to the Stables Market and a great venue for private events like wedding receptions and fashion events. You can even hire the neighbouring space, the arches which can cater for up to 1000 standing, although you will be keeping the kitchen staff at Atrium kitchen extremely busy.
baldwin@townfish.com